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Installing wall and ceiling speakers in your home can be the foundation for a
whole-house audio system or a sound system for your home theater room.
In-wall speakers make great sound effects as the surround channel speakers.
They can be installed in hallways and under soffits outside the perimeter of your
home. In-wall speakers can be installed in both new construction and into
existing homes. Unlike regular boxed speakers, in-wall speakers don’t stick out
and are not easily noticed by visitors.
Start by selecting a location for the speakers. They can be installed in the ceiling
or in a wall. There is not too much difference between the sound quality of the
two different types of installations. Much of your decision will be based on the
ease of getting wires to the speakers and obstructions.
The first task will be getting speaker cable to the planned location. Be sure to
use only Class-2 or higher rated cable. In new construction, before the walls go up,
the electrical inspector will check all your wiring, including low-voltage lines like
speaker cable. These cables have the UL Class 2 number clearly imprinted on
the sheath of the cable.
In many cases, it will be necessary to drill into
framing to run the cables. Drill holes in these
pieces directly in the center. When running
speaker cables or any low-voltage cable, be sure
to avoid running the cables near regular
electricity lines. We recommend that the cables
be at least 16 inches from parallel runs of AC
cables. Where the cable must cross each other,
cross them at 90-degree angles. Do not use the
same holes drilled in the framing that are used
for the electrical wires. For wall speaker
installations, use a wall cavity (the area between the studs) that does not have an
electrical cable running down the top plate to an electrical outlet in that cavity.
In a home with finished walls, using a Fish Tape can
aid in the running the wires. You can run the wire
before making holes in the wall or after cutting out the
opening; it’s your choice. You will also find it nearly
impossible to run wires in exterior walls because the
of installed insulation and fire stops.
Another wiring option is to use Tape Wire. This wire
can be run along floors and walls between the
amplifier and the speaker. Once installed, cover the
Tape Wire with a thin coat of dry-wall compound,
Spackle, or plaster. Once textured and painted, no
one will notice.
In new construction, we recommend
running the cable to the proposed
location of speaker and coiling up five to
six feet of cable. It’s easy to cut off the
extra cable, but if you run short, you’ll
discover that cable does not stretch at
all! After the drywall is installed and
then painted, you can go back and finish
the installation. Another alternative
available on some speakers is to use a
Rough-in Bracket. It will be nailed to the
wall studs. Later, the drywall installers
will cut an opening in the wallboard for
the bracket. After the painters finish, it’s just a matter of attaching the speaker
wires and screwing in the speaker.
In this step, you will lay out the holes that must be cut to
accommodate the speakers. Careful planning must be done in
this step or you could end up with an ugly hole on the wall.
Use a Stud Finder to locate the framing around the speaker. If
this is new construction, a sketch of the wall with dimensions
from the sides can help you remember what the wall’s framing
looks like. At this point, it may have been several months
since you dropped in the cable before the walls went up.
Check the speaker’s instructions for the minimum clearance
needed to install the speaker. Most speakers need at least
one or two inches of free space around the opening for
mounting. Ideally placing the speaker in the direct center
between the studs is the best course of action.
Use a pencil to outline the area to be cut.
Once the outline is marked on the wall, begin cutting out
the wall material. Use a drywall saw or a keyhole saw
to remove the material. Take your time and go slowly –
a mistake can ruin the project. Wallboard is pretty easy
to cut and if you are a little on the big side, the
speaker’s outer frame will cover any minor over-cuts.
Remove the center section you have cut out and place
it in a safe location. Why do this? In case you have
made a mistake and have to repair the wall. If for
some reason the hole you have made can’t
accommodate the speaker, it will have to be patched.
Despite the best planning, after opening the wall a
water pipe or heating duct could be revealed. It’s not
likely to happen, but better to play it safe and save the
cutout until the project is completed.
Reach inside the wall cavity and find the speaker
cable you previously installed. If you did not prewire
prior to this step, now’s the time to run the
wires. One optional step at this point is to install
some fiberglass insulation to improve the speaker’s
sound.
Install the bracket for the speaker if
one is included.
Some units have clamps that hold
the speaker to the wall from the
inside of the wall.
Strip the insulation for the speaker cable and
attach to the input jacks on the speaker. If the
wires are connected to an audio source, test
your speaker now. It’s easier to fix a glitch now
instead of after the speaker has been installed
and painted!
Slide the speaker into the opening.
Center the speaker in the cut-out and
evenly tighten the screws. For final
tightening, use a manual screwdriver.
The speaker’s plastic case may crack or
be distorted if over tightened by an
electric screwdriver.
Press the grille onto the speaker and perform a final
test. If you like, the grilles can be painted to match
the walls. Use a well-thinned paint and try not to
block the grille’s holes as it will diminish the sound
quality. High quality spray paint produces the best
results.
That’s it! With your new speakers installed you can
enjoy high quality sound from recessed speakers in
that room.
If you don’t feel that you have the skill set to install
in-wall speakers, there are professionals that can
help. Electricians, custom stereo installers, and
phone system installers all have the skill set to run
cables through the walls. Another alternative is a
general handyman. The local home improvement
center is a good place to pick up a few names of folks in your town who can help.
CUTOUT SIZES in U.S. Inches
|
MODEL |
SIZES |
MODEL |
SIZES |
|
AS6S |
6 5/8 x 6 5/8 |
HD-S10 |
10 ¾ x 10 ¾ |
|
HTI6c |
7 7/8 |
IWS-10 |
10 ¾ x 10 ¾ |
|
IW191 |
9 7/8 x 6 3/8 |
|
|
|
LC265i |
7 ½ x 7 ½ |
|
|
|
MT6 |
11 x 7 ½ |
|
|
|
MT8 |
13 x 8 7/8 |
|
|
|
R191 |
7 ¼ |
|
|
|
S191 |
7 ½ x 7 ½ |
|
|
|
SP8c |
9 ½ |
|
|
|
CC-6 |
19 ¼ x 7 3/8 |
|
|
|
HD-5 |
6 3/4 |
|
|
|
HD-6 |
7 ¾ |
|
|
|
HD-6c |
19 ¼ x 7 3/8 |
|
|
|
HD-8 |
9 ½ |
|
|
|
HD-525 |
9 7/8 x 6 3/8 |
|
|
|
HD-650 |
11 x 7 ½ |
|
|
|
HD-800 |
13 x 8 7/8 |
|
|
|